The Beauty Thesis : african american beauty

Showing posts with label african american beauty. Show all posts

source: Google Images

Lately, I cannot seem to get away from women commenting about other womens' hairline. It's quite annoying because *leans in* NOT EVERYONE HAS A THICK HAIRLINE!!!
When lace fronts were really popular around 2006-08, people were learning to "thin hairlines" on their wigs so that they resembled a natural hairline. I was born with a thick hairline, but it came with the 4 Z very coiled, wig like hair. I hated it, and thinned it as much as possible. If I didn't my hairline would blend into my eyebrows. I was thinking about my hairline the other day and wondered how many people think I have a love lorn possum or wig on my head. It's so thick it sometimes feels like I look like those cut outs at theme parks that you put your face in the whole and take a photo as someone else. Like a painting of Popeye and Olive Oil, but if you put your face in the hole it's you as the caricature. I walk around like that 24/7 so I have been looking into laser hair removal. It's expensive, but I'm so insecure because of the rise in sensitivity towards the care and density of women's hairline.
I understand the discussion about the supermodel with a balding hairline and I sympathize because her photos are splattered on social media, unlike when they used to put the black rectangle to hide the identity of the fashion, hair or whatever faux pas victim we just put people on blast.
There are things that can be done to regrow the hairline but if it's not in one's genetics, you're most likely buying snake oil.
Here are a few things that don't work. I would go so far as to say these are things that may be exacerbating the problem.

Stop laying your edges! I know that it's the in thing to do, but why are all my naturals trying to have smooth relaxed looking edges? You see women tying their hair down to the point they cut the circulation. Leave them alone, stop putting products, brushing, and tying them down.
Baby hair! We are bringing back 2009, and obsessed with baby hair again. I know of a few women who relax their edges to get the baby hair but how can you have baby hair and thick hairlines?
Stop the braids! You need to ease up on the braids, this is called traction alopecia. If you must wear a protective style, then get a wig or wear a turban or wrap long enough to allow the circulation or you may cause follicular damage to your hairline and that's not easy to undo.

There are some things that are easy, inexpensive and will help to recharge your hairline and, with patience, a few suggestions, you can have a thicker hairline by next season.

Massage your scalp! Scalp massage will stimulate circulation and help the blood flow back in the areas that were obstructed. You can do this in the evening prior to going to bed and if you can't find or afford a massager, use your hands. I've known some people to get success buy putting their head down and massaging whilst upside down.
Massage Oils! Tea tree oil is said to be good if you have any follicular damage, infections, or scalp issues; however, there are oils that stimulate circulation such as cinnamon, pumpkin, avocado and other oils. Do research oils for hair growth/stimulation and understand it's trial and error so what works for some may not work the same for you.
See a dermatologist or trichologist. There's nothing worse than trying to fix something that is broken. It's like when someone has a headache and they take aspirin only to find out they have migraines, or other serious head trauma. It's wise to see a specialist rather than play doctor. I cannot stress that enough! All the tips and tricks won't work if there is a serious underlying issue.
Get a full check up! Have some tests run. I am severely anemic and require iron transfusions and medical shots because supplements don't work for my levels. You may have an hormone imbalance or something that causes your hair to fall. In addition, you can catch any illness early on if you choose to have a check up, and your body and mind will thank you.
Hydration and silk. Water, water and more water. If you drink coffee, you're depleting your body of water, so for every cup of coffee have two waters or double the amount of water to whatever diuretic such as beer, alcohol etc. Protect your hair with silk as you replenish your body with water.

The process may seem futile and there will be days that seem hopeless, but the construction and rebuilding of any foundation should be strong, sturdy and short of quick fixes. You can go the Minoxidil or Nioxin route, or take supplements like B Complex, Biotin, or whatever vitamin cocktail popular on the hair forums, but you will still need to modify your current habits to preserve any repair/regrowth.

Please let me know how you get on, this is something I am quite passionate about. For centuries black women have been lead to believe our hair was inferior, nappy and won't grow; we've been fed a lot of fallacies, but our hair grows, it has various densities, curl patterns and growth rates, but it's good and when taken care of, it's beautiful!

xoxo

Edges Snatched? Here's how to grow them back!

by The Beauty Thesis on 10:25 PM

source: Google Images Lately, I cannot seem to get away from women commenting about other womens' hairline. It's quite annoying ...

There's nothing worse than when I get clients that have been given misguided information and it results in their face looking like they let a child colour on their face. We'll call her Jane Q. Citizen. Jane comes to me with her makeup done stating she wants to look "more polished." I often ask clients to bring a photo that captures the look (not the model) they're going for. For instance, is polished, natural as in little make up or clean as is minimal but bold blips? "Like this girl" she says pointing to a well known Instagram makeup poster. "Huh.... so you want to look like you're wearing makeup?" She looks perplexed so she shows the video that she followed to obtain the look she's currently wearing. As we watch, I hand her a makeup wipe to remove the Spackle so we can start fresh faced.
I ask her if she brought her products which she did and we start. What people say isn't always what we hear. Jane didn't realise that many terms aren't synonymous. For instance, if you are concealing something, you never get a shade two lighter than your own complexion. You want your complexion and depending on what you are concealing you will have a peach tint if it's a dark spot. The only time you want to get any foundation that is lighter than your skin tone is to HIGHLIGHT!!!! Most people walking around don't need a highlight. If you want your features to stand out, you can play them up but you don't need a highlight to accent your eyes, lips or any feature. Great brows? Leave them alone a la Cara Delivigne. Nice Lips? Exfoliate and moisturise and experiment with lip colours. Nice eyes? Mascara! Nice eyes, no lashes, demi lashes and a kitten flick!
I understand the trends but they are simply that. Trends! The only time contouring and highlighting makes much difference is in photographs or low lights. Having dinner with someone special? Of course the highlight will look major when it's reflecting from candle or dim lights. Taking a head shot? Highlight will look like the sun just kissed you there, but if you don't know what you're doing, you're going to have a face full of streaks.
Take what they say online like you would a rumour. There may be truth to it, but don't count it as fact or a scholarly source depending on the person. There are a lot of things like, "clean up my brow" or "conceal my eye bags with a concealer two shades lighter than my face" You clean your brows when you pluck the hair that's stray or you conceal your bags by using a salmon based concealer and then applying your regular foundation. When a person says anything and it ends with "like a pro" don't be fooled. All the "pros" do things differently and it's based on skin tone, texture, elasticity and purpose. You can watch "How to get a flawless face" all day every day but no one has a flawless face, so if you want a one dimensional face with no textures or tone, be my guest.
Just because people have a large following, does not mean they have what it takes to make you look your best. They don't know your skin, your undertones, your trouble spots so the most they can do is give general direction.
Jane and I spent a long time working on her look. Not because she was in need, I rarely advocate the need for makeup as opposed to the love for experiment. It's not good or healthy to feel one needs makeup to be attractive. Jane simply needed to learn about her face so she could have more knowledge when selecting products to enhance her natural features. Cool undertones with warm makeup shades can make her look dirty. Her hair is too warm for the pink in her porcelain skin so that's the beauty of makeup. You experiment, and by that you learn. What didn't work today, a few tweaks and tomorrow she can wear that colour but effortless is always the goal.
If you have beauty questions, aren't sure about a product, drop me a line, I love to help!!

xo

Social Media Makeup Artists

by The Beauty Thesis on 7:39 PM

There's nothing worse than when I get clients that have been given misguided information and it results in their face looking like the...

I would call that my dream job. Why do I fit in that position? Because people who are transitioning from relaxed to natural need all the support they can get. Sadly, where can you find someone on call to walk you through your detangling, co-washing, stretching, protective styles, product addition, hair typing, apl, bsl, and all the frustration, determination and dedication required to stop lye-ing to your hair? Exactly!

I realised I have a knack for this yesterday whilst assisting a group of women and their daughters during a meetup. As they went round the room expressing their issues I realised they spoke things I had chronicled on my journey. It got to the point where, I who's very demure and reserved, seemed to be offering all the information.
I am not better, nor do I have the answers, but I have been there. I dealt with the breakage, the shedding, the twist out gone wrong, the products that didn't deliver, the hair crushes. In fact, yesterday I looked at the spoils of my trip for hair ingredients and it looked like I was making various salad dressings and vegan trays. The oils: tea tree, olive, garlic, almond, jojoba, vitamin E, and Amla. I had the butters: Shea, Cocoa, Almond, Coconut, and Honey. The produce: avocado, banana, garlic clove, ginger, organic cinnamon, and blueberries.
I use these to make products for girls at the foster home. It's far less expensive to make than purchase, and we have a time to bond and talk about things. Also, since they are freshly made with no preservatives or chemicals, they must be used within a strict time frame. I'm thinking about getting fragrance oils for scent, but I'm concerned about the impact on future endeavors.
Seriously, when I was in line, there was a pretty young lady who had an unfortunate wig on and it was due to her going back to relaxing and had a weave sewn in and her hair was damaged when it was removed. The hair dresser washed her hair prior to removing the weave, therefore causing it to mat and resulting in breakage. She had to cut her hair to an inch all around and still doesn't think she can "do natural" because of the "work" so...
It's not really work if you think about it. When you first start exercising, you don't see results, but you are exerting yourself and working hard. It's the same concept. You don't see immediate results because you are training your body to work differently. It takes time. When you have learned to manipulate your hair for 20, 30, 40 or more years, you can't figure out what your chemical free hair likes. You didn't have to listen to your hair because the lye allowed you a "crutch" to keep from working with it in its natural state. Make friends with your hair. Learn what it likes, but don't pressure yourself. Don't compare your journey to anyone else's. It's one thing to learn or share experience with products, techniques, etc. but you can't expect your hair to respond the same. Also, don't expect the many rules to be hard and fast. Some people grow hair faster but genetics, diet, hydration, etc. are all factors. Go easy on yourself and your hair!

Natural Hair Coach

by The Beauty Thesis on 9:10 PM

I would call that my dream job. Why do I fit in that position? Because people who are transitioning from relaxed to natural need all the su...

So the internet when HAM when a website displayed a Caucasian women as a representative of the "Natural Hair Movement." It's been ugly in the cyber-world. It was ugly for a few weeks and fortunately, I have no dog in this fight, however, I have an opinion. From my understanding, the Natural Hair Movement really isn't as much a movement as it is a statement. For centuries, women with Afro textured hair that was often called, "nappy," or "bad hair" etc., would often use Sodium Hydroxide (Lye) to straighten our hair to either loosen or eliminate the curl. There are women who were known for having "good" hair; however, they had curls that were loose, almost wavy and that was the "ideal" texture. They didn't straighten their hair with the vigilance we kinky girls did.
Not gonna lie, having the "z" pattern wiry curls absolutely sucked! Sitting between your mum's legs as she waved a hot comb through your kinks was not fun. Sadly, the detangle process was what did my hair in. Thick hair, think wiggy, that really had no part but rather sat on one's head was so difficult to comb through most times I found excuses to not want my hair done, but that meant no church, no church meant no home.
When most girls came of age, to be determined by their house rules, they could get a relaxer to straighten or relax the curl. When I found out about this, SIGN ME UP!!!! Against my mother's wishes, I succumbed...

It was as if heaven opened and cherubs were released around my head that day. I could not understand how addictive this would be. I felt like I had "good hair" although everyone knew the good from the bad haired girls, it was wicked moving my head and my hair not stuck to my head. When the wind blew, I had some problems, just like the white girls! We understood the struggle of rain, fog, and other elements that could take a good hair day and throw it down the toilet.
My mum refused to "put that junk" on my head, so I had to work humiliating chores for families to afford my addiction. I had a worker's permit, but I had no experience, car, references, so cleaning, babysitting, writing papers, all means to get the roots straight. Most women did this for most of their life.
About 10 years ago someone brought to my attention all the health hazards of the "creamy crack." I spent a lot of time researching anything to dispute the claims. How could I allow hearsay to steal my joy? Devil be damned!

Sick as it sounds, I scoured the internet to find out what beautician was known for getting hair bone straight. There were times, my scalp was on fire, but if I said anything then the chemicals would be rinsed out with the chance of my hair not straightening all the way. So I suffered with the chemical burns in order to have that hair that moved like the girls on tv and magazines. Sure, my body and face were jacked, but the hair was on point.
In time, more of my associates were doing a "big chop" or "bc" and opting to stop straightening their hair and to let it grow in it's natural state. Some were more zealous than others. They said natural and they meant natural. They stopped putting any chemicals in their hair. There were recipes made from ripened bananas, avocados, raw honey and other items found in the house. As for colouring the hair? Henna! I started greying at nine so I do colour my hair. If that makes me unnatural, cool, I'm okay with that, but the fact that in 06, I transitioned (no big chop) from relaxed to natural has been such an amazing journey. It's had highs and lows, it takes a lot more time, patience, and tender loving care to do my hair, but I don't mind. I am past the whinging about how many hours it takes since the beauty shop took a whole day, it's nice to have my weekly pampering session.
So, where is this #teamnatural coming from? When a Caucasian woman was interviewed by a predominately black website, pitch forks and torches ensued. It was the interview that divided a movement. In all fairness, the struggle with kinky coarse hair is much different than the curly haired girl who isn't even transitioning. She just decided to embrace her natural curls. No more scrunchies, this girl is wearing her hair proudly.
So, shots were fired, fingers were pointing, domains were questioned, boycotts were trending and accusations ran amok. Nearly everyone, even those who didn't understand the "movement" were chiming in. A man held a forum via Web Ex to try to bring the peace back. I tried to listen, but I kept thinking about that song, "I am not my hair," by E. Badu. Was it really that serious? It's one thing to not spend money where you aren't respected such as Asian owned beauty supply stores, but now we are boycotting some of the friends we "grew up" with online.
I must admit, I did view some bloggers and vloggers differently; but fortunately, none of them live on my side of the world. Being an outcast has its benefits.
Do I think that it was wrong to put a "Becky" as a featured natural? There are some who have kinky hair; however, this one did not. I find that poor taste because it would be like having Kate Moss represent Weight Watchers. Sure, she may "embrace her natural curves," but they miss the point.
Will there ever be a #teamunited? Of course not, so I'll just dodge the bullets, educate myself when necessary and stay out of it. How was your week?

#TeamNatural .... Wait! What?

by The Beauty Thesis on 10:32 PM

So the internet when HAM when a website displayed a Caucasian women as a representative of the "Natural Hair Movement." I...

I don't get products sent to me for obviously reasons; however, I am a very good judge of products due to the fact I am spending hard earned money and with the economic situation as it is the only person I have to blame for my poor choices is myself.
I didn't know until the Federal Trade Commission started mandating full disclosure of sponsorship, paid reviews, product placement, etc. that bloggers may be a bit biased in their review of a product. I trusted reviews for purchasing cars, electronics, skin care and other things in an attempt to stretch my dollar. When I paid off all debts, I started to see purchases as investments. Kind of takes the thrill out of retail therapy but one can't have everything. There are many sites I trust for reviews; however, when I do find the handful of people I trust for reviews, I take things into consideration. I had to get to know me and that made a big difference. Having someone give me their experience with a product for oily skin, which I have, will be informative; however, it won't have the same experience if their skin is normal, combination or dry. This is also the case for hair products. I've had to practically obtain a PhD in chemistry to make better choices when making purchases. I know there is a large push against sulfates, silicone, dairy and gluten. I learnt the hard way that I need silicone in my hair. I have long, natural hair that tangles easily. It's been a trial and error to find products that support my attempt to obtain relaxer free and healthy hair. I say "relaxer free" because I am not natural. I don't put 100% organic things in my body or on it. I'm sure there are chemicals in my shampoo conditioner, fruits and more. I won't tell that lie.
I encourage anyone who wants results from their products to look at several sources before deciding on a purchase. In addition, find out the return policy prior to making any purchases. I was recently cat fished at a cosmetics counter. I failed to do what I would normally do because I was nervous. I bought a foundation that appeared to be a match when it was applied to my face in the store, but by the time I reached my flat, I realised it was not a match and the receipt stated "No Returns or Exchanges" so I can either put it in my poor purchase cemetery, or use it with another product to neutralise the difference. Looking back, I was too worried about being indecisive and the sales assistant seemed annoyed. In the store, there is fluorescent lighting, and because of my oils it oxidized to a burnt orange. I don't know why I even felt the need to buy foundation. I have yet to be satisfied. I can't find one that looks good indoors, outdoors, with and without flash that doesn't transfer to articles of clothing. If you know of any, please let me know.
So, when I make a purchase I will check a few forums. People on forums are usually really enthused about whatever the subject is and they don't get paid. There may be shameless plugs but that's rare. I also will look at Yelp, or Amazon. When it comes to vehicles, it's never 100% and it's taken me longer to decide on my next used car than any of my college majors. I'm concerned.
For cosmetic reviews, I used to trust videos and blogs, but even if the person has disclosed if it is a pr item, it may not suit me. I saw a review for a hair product that EVERYONE loves, and I hated it. But, I don't live in an area that is humid, so that could be a factor, it's quite dry and it's either hot or cold and my hair responds different to hard water and moist climates.
So, before jumping on the "next best thing" think about a few things, and do some research. The eyeshadow may swatch well with fingers, but will a brush perform the same?
xo